Finding Those Old Kit Instructions and Plans

Most all who build and clone model rockets know of these sites,
There may be a few here you haven't seen:

On The Rocketry Forum, Bradycros was looking for kit instructions on the Estes Website.
Here's a short version of his post:

". . . I clicked on nearly every box on the home page and got; nothing.
Customer Service? Why not try it? Tried everything else.
This what I found in the left hand column: Instructions
WTF. Who'd a thunk it?
I was thunking OOP instructions would be more of a archivel type thing and not a 'customer service' type thing.


Here's the final address that Todd found: http://www.estesrockets.com/customer-service/instructions/

Another source of Estes instructions from the Official Forum of Tripoli Rocketry of Louisiana & South Louisiana Rocketry (SoLaR)
http://estesplans.larocketryforum.com/

Getting to the Shasta instructions archive requires too much searching.
These are the final destinations you are looking for:
http://ashasta-sadie.com/FArchive1.html
http://ashasta-sadie.com/FArchive2.html

Another favorite resource:
http://www.oldrocketplans.com/

And don't forget Jim Z's:
http://www.spacemodeling.org/JimZ/index.htm

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/14    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 57 Low Wrap and Fin Mask

After masking the root edges of all the fins, a paper cover was made to entirely cover the fin sides.

In the back of the BT-101 tube, rolled paper was taped to the inside to keep out the black paint.

I did my best to cover the rest of the fairings that will remain white.

Maybe I should have used that expensive tape!

All the lines masked with Scotch tape came out clean.
The masking tape results were just okay.
Enlarge the picture to see the masked edges over the vacuformed wrap. All are repairable.


Here the Scotch tape mask is pulled off from the fin root edges. The Scotch tape lines were clean.


Time spent on build: 1:00
Total time on build so far: 54:45

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/14    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 56 Low Wrap and Fin Mask

Again, I used Scotch tape for the flat surfaces.

The edges were marked with a black Sharpie pen and new straight edges were cut with a strait edge.

Pencil lines were drawn for reference and the tape edge set down on those lines.


I'm sure some are asking: "Why would you use regular masking tape and not a specialty tape from the hobby store?"

Two reasons:
1. I wanted to do this build stock, using tape that most builder's would have and use.
2. I'm cheap! I can't see spending that much money for a few feet of tape. But - unless you have a lot of experience doing complex masks, you will probably get better results with the specialty masking tapes. Your end result could vary!

A thin masking tape strip is layed down along the raised line on the fin fairings.

The mask continues, framing the black areas with Scotch tape and regular masking tape.

Time spent on build: 1:00
Total time on build so far: 53:45

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/13    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

New"STRONGER" Formula Elmer's Glue All

There was a pretty good exchange on TRF about the new "stronger" formula Elmer's Glue All.


At left is the older formula bottle, #E372
In the middle, the new "Stronger Formula" #E1324
On the right, School Glue #E308

Here's what was posted on TRF:

OLD DUDE:
Everyone knows you should not use yellow glue when joining airframe tubes with couplers, right? So I thought I should follow the common wisdom and use white glue instead of going with epoxy. (Did I mention that I hate coupling LPR tubes?)

What I didn't realize was that Elmer's Glue-All (New Stronger Formula!) is now a close relative to cyanoacrylate glue rather than the slippery white stuff of days gone by.
Needless to say, the coupler went in about 3/4" and seized up. I panicked and banged the end of the coupler down on the bench to drive the coupler further into the tube. The additional 3/4" that resulted was close to where it should have been so press on!
Figuring I had not used enough glue to create that slippy/slidey feeling, I added even more Elmer's to the other tube and spread it around making sure I had a nice even coating.
Same story. The coupler went in 3/4" and no more. I tried to remove the second airframe tube and managed to crinkle the aft tube WITHOUT budging anything. (See why I hate LPR tubing couplers?)
Alrighty then, nothing for it but to salvage what I could (fins and motor hook) and do what I should have done in the first place: Replace all the flimsy waxy Estes airframe tubes with standard white tubes from QuasarOne.

Note to self: Use epoxy when doing couplers. It just works.
Note to everyone else: Elmer's Glue-All (New Stronger Formula!) is to be avoided at all costs. This vile stuff's only redeeming attribute is the pointy cap which can be used as a replacement for the annoying ones found on Titebond Mounting and Trim Glue.

DIZWOLF:
Ouch. I just had a similar experience trying to put a baffle into an old BT-80 rocket. Shouldn't have tried it, but I could slide it all the way down the tube, so I figured why not? Spread some Elmers on there, and should slip right down, right? Wrong. Wasn't in there 5 seconds and it set tight enough to break the plywood when I pushed on it. Lost the baffle and about 3 inches of tube in the deal. Stupid glue. I'll have to keep this in mind when I start my MM soon.

JPVEGH:
The Elmers school glue is still the same old white Elmers. It makes strong paper to paper bonds. It's all I use for couplers, motor mounts, engine blocks and the like. You can buy a big bottle for a quarter when the school year starts.

I don't have any opinion on the Elmer's School Glue, they may have changed the formulation since I've used it. In the past, I read it doesn't have a strong of bond as the standard Glue-All.
I found a few bottles of the old formula Glue-All (#E372) at a Staples store. I now have five, 4 oz. bottles in reserve. After that, I'll probably have to switch to epoxy when gluing engine mounts and couplers. I'd rather play it safe!

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/13    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 55 Interstage Mask!

After the tape was removed, here's the result.

I still have some touching up to do, but overall the results were good.

Next up - the final black areas around the fins and fairings.

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/12    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 54 Interstage Mask!

NOTE!
Just like the reduction wrap, the mask measurements for the interstage section are incorrect!
The first picture shows one of the masking lines molded into the corrugation of the wrap.
The 9/16" height of the upper horizontal strip should be 15/32" tall.
The height of the wide vertical stripes should be 3 9/16", not 3 13/16".
There is no way possible for these measurements to fit the Centuri vacuform wraps.

Even though it doesn't match the Estes instructions, you'll want to take advantage of the raised mask lines molded into the corrugated wraps.
If you were to go by the Estes measurements, you tape will have to go in and out of every corrugation. You'd never get a clean mask line that way.



Small pieces were added where I knew there could be adhesion problems with the longer masking strips.

Marking these with a Sharpie (before cutting to size) really helps with lining up all the connecting pieces.






After another burnishing on all tape edges, the interstage section is ready for the black paint.

This section was ridiculously difficult to mask!
Every time you think you are done, you find another spot that needs tape.

Time spent on build: 1:00
Total time on build so far: 52:45

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/12    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Saturn V Build Part 53 Interstage Mask!

You'll have to trust me on this -
Don't try to mask and paint the entire model in one session! When you mask this interstage section you will understand what I mean.
Do it alone with the wife and kids far, far away!

I used a combination of Scotch tape on the straight areas and masking tape strips on the curves.

The first piece was set where I felt there could be a problem with getting a good paint seal. When in doubt, use more tape and piece it together.

As before, I cut a new edge on all the tape. Before setting on the model, the Scotch tape was blackened with a Sharpie so it could be seen against the white undercoat.

This is your most valuable tool to get a good mask.
It's a smooth sharpened dowel. The dowel end is sharpened then rounded off a little with sandpaper.
Use it to press the tape in place while laying it down the first time.
Burnish every edge again right before spraying.

I switched over to masking tape strips for the ullage motors.
The edge was wrapped without the top of the tape touching.
The tape was pinched together over the tapered ends. While pinching the tape closed, I also pushed down to keep the tip of the mask on the base of the tapered end.

Time spent on build: 1:00
Total time on build so far: 51:45

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/11    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 52 RCS Nozzles

The center of three R.C.S. nozzles had a molding dimple in them.

I filled the hole with thick super glue, placed with a toothpick.
After drying, the glue was sanded flat using 400 grit on a sanding block.

The nozzles were sprayed white while still attached to the molding tree.
The small nozzles will be brushed black then the entire assembly cut from the tree.

After smoothing out the cut off point, black paint touch up the white spot.

NOTE: Once again, check the Saturn V pictured on the kit box. The RCS nozzles are not painted black. The entire piece was left white. It makes me wonder if this pictured model was painted to meet a deadline.

Time spent on build: :45
Total time on build so far: 50:45

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/11    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 51 RCS Nozzle Drill

The instructions suggest using a scribe or sharp pencil to make a gluing hole for the R.C.S. nozzles.

A sharp pencil? Don't try it, you'll never get it through the body tube wall.
I started the hole with a small awl.

The hole diameter was widened by twirling a #11 blade in the hole.

The instructions say the hole should be 1/16" diameter. The gluing pin on the back of the R.C.S. nozzle piece is actually a little smaller than that.




The hole edges were cleaned up with a small diamond rat tail file.

As you are widening the hole, check for a good fit using the pin on the back of the nozzle piece.

Time spent on build: :30
Total time on build so far: 50:00

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/10    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

LAUNCH! Schoolyard May 31. 2011

I left the house at 7:30 a.m.
It seems as soon as it warms up, the winds start. The winds were already blowing.
I figured I'd start with nose-blow recovery and move up to parachute.

I couldn't get the STAR SNOOP to ignite. I know, MicroMaxx are temperamental.
I took it off the tripod launcher and set up the FlisKits HONEST JOHN.
It's reliable and a true flyer. I would guess it reached 125 feet. The streamer ejected early, and landed without damage.

I pulled the bad igniter in the Star Snoop and re-used the one that just launched the Honest John.
This time - Success! Good flight with nose blow recovery.

The Hot Rod Rockets BELL BOTTOM flew to an estimated 300 feet with an A3-4t engine. It's easy to see the red prism streamer on recovery.

This next model had me concerned - with good reason.

It's a new build from an OOP company called Stellar Dimensions.The square bodied XANADUNE.
I'd read of ejection failures on RocketReviews.com.
With an Estes A8-3, it spun on the way up, the fins are canted.
At ejection, only the nose cone blew, the tightly packed parachute didn't eject. In that narrow midsection there is little room for a parachute.

Take a look at the casing pulled after the flight.
Most of the ejection charge blew out the back, down the open corners of the square bodied engine mount.
I'll be doing a build thread on this blog after the Saturn V is finished.

And lastly, the Semroc ASTRON was launched using a Quest A6-4.
In the picture you can see one of the last Tiger Tail igniters I have. They take a little longer to ignite, but still work well.

I'm not a fan of the Quest Chinese A6-4 engines anymore.
This one veered off vertical like half of the others did.
They are loud during boost though!
A reefed parachute brought it down 100 yards away.

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/10    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Rocketguy Videos on YouTube

Did you ever wonder how to open up a kit bag?
"Nose cones roll, be careful with that."

Grab a beer, and check out the video HERE
If rocketry ever needed a spokeperson, he's the man.
He said "package" eleven times, I counted. But wait, there's more!
This is only the first video in the series.

I'm sure he meant well, but the videos produced by the NAR are much better.
Check them out HERE

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/9    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 50 RCS Nozzle Guide

I know, my build is a little out of sequence.
After you've built a dozen rockets, most builders veer away from the order of the instructions.

The R.C.S. nozzle marking guide is cut from the instruction sheet.
I wrapped it as directed and marked the tube at the arrow locations.
The first picture shows it lined up and marked per the instructions.



I did my usual check and rotated the guide 90 degrees up to the next mark on the right. It didn't line up! Good thing I didn't drill any holes yet.

I can assume these R.C.S. nozzles should be equally spaced 90 degrees around the tube. In order for the guide to be correct, the first arrow mark should be where the ends of the wrap meet and are taped. Disregard the arrow right to the left of the wrap ends and mark where the guide ends meet. The other three arrows should be correct.

NOTE: Go to the Centuri instructions HERE
Check page 47 for the Template Cutout Sheet. The RCS Nozzle Placement Guide is on the upper left side. All four of the nozzle locations are equally spaced around the guide. You could print this guide and use it instead or make your own. It will fit the service module tube.


I made my own marking guide by cutting a strip of paper to the correct height and folding it into quarters.







Using the guide I made, pencil marks were made for the drilling. Notice I made a "cross hair" to have a better center point.

Time spent on build: :30
Total time on build so far: 49:30

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/9    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Födelsedag och morsdag

Supergod smörgåstårta som dotter + son gjorde till mig igår.

Middag fixade dom också medans andre sonen och jag åkte iväg till lägenheten och fixade det sista där. Nu är det bara till att lämna ifrån nycklarna på tisdag. Hela lägenheten ska totalrenoveras och skönt är ju det. Dom gör det med alla lägenheter där i husen, allteftersom folk flyttar ut. Putsade alla fönster och städade under veckan som gått. Men det behövdes inte storstädas i köket i alla fall. Det är så otroligt skönt att ha flyttat från all trafik som är där på vägen till Frösön. Halva bron är avstängd och det är trafikstockningar där i korsningen vid gamla lägenheten. Här vaknar man med fågelkvitter och inte trafikbullret.

Lycka är också att vi fick flytta in här förra helgen och inte denna helgen, som det var bestämt innan. Jag hade aldrig orkat eller hunnit med allt annars, innan onsdag denna vecka. 


På tisdag kommer Osloungdomarna hem och då får jag gentil hjälp av dom. Det är lycka en sån här gång att ha en son som är kock och dotter som jobbar som servitris och är helskarp på drycker. Jag längtar överhuvudtaget efter att få träffa dom igen.

I går blev jag ett år äldre igen och det känns ju inte nån större skillnad :-). Det var ingen hejd på firande i helgen, när det också är morsdag idag. Äldste sonen med familj kom och firade med oss.

I morgon ska "studentdottern" och jag iväg och storhandla inför studentmiddagen på onsdag. 20 st kommer hit och firar henne.

Kram

Strömma

منبع:
http://lojrom-vittvin.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/9    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

Estes Saturn V Build Part 49 Masking Touchup

After removing all the tape, there was some expected rough edges. It didn't turn out badly, considering I used a generic masking tape.





Some touch up was done with a fine point Sharpie.
Around the nubs, I went back with some white paint sprayed into the can cap.
The Rustoleum Painter's Touch takes touch up very well. When brushed over it doesn't lift the base color. The 2x formula covers easily with a brush.

Touch ups are in progress here, still a little more work yet.

I found it interesting that the Estes box cover picture has the white nubs painted black! Their builder probably gave in to the tough mask. I don't blame him on this one.

TRIVIA: The paint pattern pictures in the Estes instructions are from their original kit - not the version you are building! The pictured Estes Saturn V had embossed card stock wraps instead of the Centuri vacuform pieces.

Time spent on build: 1:00
Total time on build so far: 49:00

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/8    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()

New Goblin Kit From Semroc!

I always look forward to a new release from Semroc.
This time it's my all time favorite - THE GOBLIN
Check out the specs HERE
I'll usually download the instructions and check their altitude predictions.
The picture at the right is from the Semroc online catalog.

I've got quite a history with this design.
The following copy was lifted from the EMRR/Rocket Reviews Family Picture Contest a few years back:

After getting back into the hobby, I discovered cloning. These four family Goblins were not built from commercial kits.

My first attempt was an all time favorite - The Goblin. It was built stock, around the BT-55 airframe. All parts were ordered through Semroc. The plans were from Jim Z’s site and the decals from Excelsior. It has flown many times on B6-4s and C6-5s. Back in the 1970s I lost my original Goblin on a D13, I haven’t gotten the nerve to fly the clone on a D12.

My BIG Goblin is a 1.7 upscale. It was the first big model I’d built since the Enerjet days. The body tube is the Semroc heavy duty 225 tubing. Through the wall basswood fins, and that big BD-25588 nose cone. The engine mount is made for 24mm engines. Recovery includes a baffle and a 24" rip-stop nylon parachute. I know (now) there are available kitted upscales of the Goblin, but this one was upscaled and built from parts.

My Baby Goblin is a “carded” model from the Rocketry Blog website: http://rocketry.wordpress.com/ultimate-paper-rocket-guide/paper-rocket-partial-builds/ All parts were printed on 110 lb. Cardstock. The nose cone is balsa and a small streamer is used for recovery. It has flown using Quest Micro-Maxx engines.

Just added is my new fleet favorite, The “Franken Goblin”! This model was built and flown as “The New Member of the Family” for the 2009 EMRR Challenge. The economy dictated which parts were available, anything and everything already in my spare parts box. From existing and retired models, I pulled and cut-away enough parts to piece together the “monster”! The mainframe is 8 ½" of BT-60. A Goony? Well, sort of - but just a little “scarier.” I’d bought decal paper but hadn’t used it yet. This model cried out for a revised “Goblin” treatment. Overall, I was happy with my first attempt at decals. The green and black paint decor suits the Frankenstein theme. A stable, fun and reliable flyer, B6-4 engines are a great fit.

TRIVIA: If you want your Goblin to be true to the Wayne Kellner original design, flip the "3" fin decals on their backs. Or, 90 degrees clockwise.

Another new kit is the PSC INFINITY. Check it out HERE
It's a two-stage design to celebrate the Pittsburgh Space Command's 25th anniversary.
A sharp looking bird with an unusual 2 stage cluster. The booster recovers with a streamer.
Read the story behind the design on the down loadable instructions. It's interesting how they tied in the club colors.

منبع:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

نوشته شده در تاریخ 1390/03/8    | توسط: فیروز قوچ داشی    |    | نظرات()